LAVERDAMANIA

Troubleshooting

1- The engine doesn't start

ProblemPossible cause
The starter doesn't work

- Flat battery
- Rusty or loose battery cables (battery terminals and starter terminal)
- Loose ground main wire onto the engine
- Cracked bakelite insulator onto the starter body (+ battery)
- Dirty or worn starter brushes
- Worn starter relay
- Dirty starter button connection

The starter works but doesn't drive the engine, there is a noise to the RHS of the engine
- Worn/broken starter flywheel
The starter works, the engine turns but it doesn't start

- No fuel in the tank, fuel taps on "off", blocked air vent onto the tank cap, blocked fuel filters
- Choke system doesn't work (blocked plungers, broken cable)
- Kill switch on "Off" or moisture inside the kill switch
- Blown main fuse
- Worn main switch (no current to the ignition module)
- Points too tight (650/750)
- Worn engine stop relay (1000/1200)
- Worn ignition module (1000/1200)
- If detonation in the exhausts while trying to start, worn ballast resistors (1000/1200 equipped with Bosch BTZ)

2- The engine misfires

ProblemPossible cause
Misfires occur at any speed

- Points too tight (650/750)
- Worn condensers (650/750)
- Wrong electric insulation of the points (650/750)
- Pick-ups set incorrectly (1000/1200)
- Worn resistance ballast (1000/1200 with Bosch BTZ)
- Bad connections to the main fuse
- Worn or damaged ignition module (1000/1200)
- Bad current supply or ground connection to the ignition module (1000/1200)
- Bad fuel supply
- Too cold plugs

Misfires occur only when accelerating

- Too much ignition advance
- Fuel accelerator pumps uncorrectly set (750 SF2/SF3/1000/1200)
- Ignition points uncorrectly set (650/750)
- Worn condensers (650/750)
- Mixture too lean
- Mixture really too rich

Misfires occur when decelerating, with detonations in the exhausts

- Mixture too lean

3- Lack of power

ProblemPossible cause
Lack of power

- Ignition points uncorrectly set (650/750)
- Blocked ignition advance centrifugal system (650/750)
- Pick-ups uncorrectly set (1000/1200)
- Bad current supply or ground connection to the ignition module (1000/1200)
- Uncorrect advance setting
- Worn or damaged ignition module (1000/1200)
- Bad fuel supply (blocked cap vent, blocked filters)
- Bad carb setting, notably too rich
- Worn piston rings
- Valve clearance too small
- Worn valves
- Bad fuel supply on race engines, use the same fuel suplly system as the RGSs
- Blocked or dirty air filter
- Air leak
- Bad timing setting

4- The engine doesn't idle

ProblemPossible cause
No or unstable tick over

- Ignition points uncorrectly set (650/750)
- Pick-ups uncorrectly set (1000/1200)
- Worn or damaged ignition module (1000/1200)
- Valve clearance too small
- Bad timing setting
- Worn valves
- Spark plugs too cold
- Blocked choke system
- Worn piston rings
- Air leak


5- The engine pinks

ProblemPossible cause
Pinking

- Ignition points uncorrectly set (650/750)
- Too much ignition advance
- Air leak

6- Smokes

ProblemPossible cause
Smokes

- Exhaust gaskets (copper) not sealing
- Worn valve guides
- Worn piston rings
- Black smoke: Fuel mixture too rich

7- Noises to the top and the bottom

ProblemPossible cause
Noise to the top

- Broken or damaged amshafts druff key (650/750)
- Loose assembling nuts of the camshafts (650/750)
- Loose or damaged cam bearing (1000/1200)
- Worn timing chain
- Worn timing chain guide and tensioner.

Noise to the bottom

- loose R and L crank nuts
- Locker whasher (to the sprocket on the LHS of the crank) too thin
- Worn clutch drum silent-blocks
- Worn primary chains
- Worn chain tensionner
- Worn mainshaft bearings
- Worn clutch drum bush
- Worn crankshaft bearings

8- Vibrations

ProblemPossible cause
Excessive vibes

- Unbalanced carbs
- Wrong ignition advance setting
- Loose engine fixing points (650/750/1000 180°)
- Worn engine silent-blocks (1000 120°)
- Damaged or incorrectly rebuilt crank

9- Fuel mixture too rich or too lean

ProblemPossible cause
Too rich

- Dirty or seized choke plungers or cables too much tightened
- Jets too big
- Dirty air filter
- Wrong cut of the throttle slides
- Worn float valvesPointeaux non étanches
- Sunk float

Too lean - Air leak
- Jets too small
- Worn throttle slides or wrong cut
- Uncorrect float level

10- Impossible carb balance

ProblemPossible cause
Impossible balance

- Worn or damaged top part of the carbs
- Worn throttle slides
- Setting screws too loose

11- Fuel overflows of the carbs

ProblemPossible cause
Fuel overflows

- Worn float valves
- Sunk float
- Blocked float bowl vent

12- Oil overflows from the crankcase breather

ProblemPossible cause
Huile sort par le reniflard

- Worn piston rings
- Oil level too high
- Occurs at very high engine speed: Fit a second breather to the cam cover or to the oil dipstick place

13- The clutch is slipping

ProblemPossible cause
Clutch slips

- Wrong oil type, 100 % synthetic with automotive additives, automotive oil. It's necessary to come back to a specified oil after having cleaned or changed the clutch discs
- 1000 120°: insert a extra steel plate between the two friction plates that usually run against each other

14- Excessive clutch stiffness

ProblemPossible cause
Excessive stiffness

- Cable is not routed correctly (no sharp angles)
- Cable and levels are not lubed correctly
- Worn balls and/or rods inside the mainshaft
- 1000/1200: Wrong clutch drum type (several lenghts were available)

15- Problems with bearbox selection

ProblemPossible cause
Selection is imprecise, wrong neutrals, one or several gears don't run

- Eccentric screw incorrectly set: Adjust the eccentric screw for equal up and down movement with the gears shifted into 4th gear (not neutral)
- Washers between selector case and selector spring incorrectly set or missing
- Worn selector drum spring
- Worn selection system (too much play)

Gearbox blocked on only one gear- Selector spring incorrectly fitted: Curved end should be to the top.

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