668 668 Ghost 668 racing 750S

When I began to build up this website, my intention was to speak about the Breganze Laverda, my real passion.

But I quickly realized, thanks to a lot of mails, that the modern Laverda owners, motorbikes built in the Zane factory, need many informations
about them: These interesting motorbikes are rare and some of the early bikes suffer of various problems which could be difficult to solve
without good contacts or advices.

This page is made for them, hope it will answer to their questions.
For any question or informations about these bikes or about this page, please contact me: sfcl@wanadoo.fr
Please note that the advices shown in this page come from some owners themselves, anyone has to verify first if everything is ok. Thanks to
inform me if all is correct in order to make this page as precise as possible.

(Thanks to Christophe Collot for the various infos he gave me about Zane bikes)


Three excellent websites about the Zane Laverdas, in english only:

- The first one is the Steve Carr home page (New Zealand). It's the absolute reference for these motorbikes:

- The second one is a list, in english, where all the Zane Laverda owners can exchange their questions and experience:

- The third one is a web site, created by the owner of the list above: http://www.atasteoforange.com.

- For those who should want to learn the french language (!), please note that there is a forum in this Laverdamania web site, where all the
technical questions or others subjects about Laverda bikes could be evoked: Go to:

- A french website in two parts: Laverda.free.fr speaks about the 750S and Laverdatester concerns new parts project for the Zane-Laverdas.

- Two nice french websites about the Zané bikes: LaverdaCorsa and ForzaLaverda.

- Very interesting website about the 650 and 668 Zane bikes: http://www.laverda650.de/index.html

- A new website from Belgium : http://www.race-styling.be


There are a lot of rumours about the Zane Laverda reliability. What is really true?

The early bikes (650, 668, Ghost) seem to have had various problems, here is a non-exhaustive list:
- Clutch problem (until engine number 1461): Solved after engine # 1461 with a new 8/9 plates clutch system.
- Broken balance shafts: This problem occured only on racing bikes at high revs (more than 9000 rpm). It was due to a too small diameter of the balance shaft. It seems that it doesn't occured on road bikes. Solved on 750 S.
- Over-heating problem: Well-known problem on the early models, with cracked heads as a result and very quickly worn valve guides.
The factory did some changes since the engine number 2114 (different oil circuit, different head) but the problem is not totally solved..
- Heads: Apart the overheating problems above, a bad serie of heads had been built by another company in 1996. Theorically, the factory has changed these heads for genuine ones.
- Gearbox: Difficult to find netral position, broken selector spring. Solved on 750S.
- Rectifier failure: This Ducati rectifier must be replaced by a Nisho Iwaï (furnished under warranty by the factory) or by an Electrex.
- Oil consumption: Very important for the 650/668/Ghost. Begin near 10 000 km. The factory had replaced cylinder/pistons by new modified ones. Some owners have fitted the 720cc kit, from Desmo for instance.
- Broken clip-ons: Concern only the very early 650. Check them and replace if necessary.

Theorically, the factory took measures to change the wrong parts under warranty. In practice, things were a bit different in some countries...
Here is a modifications board, with parts numbers:

Référence Pièce Observations
19001000078 Rectifier Nisho Iwaï Replace the Ducati
52005000020 Oil pressure valve  
77003000022 Eprom 650/98 M929-85EDA3 Replace EPROM before 1998
25001000014 Engine head Kit Replace heads without oil passages
19001000039 Oil pump In 1996.
19001000010 Kit modif gearbox Replace part n° 043005000018
19001000100 Modif clutch 650 9 plates
190010000101 New clutch since engine # 1461

The 750S, Formula are generarly reliable, but they seem have too some problems:
- Fragile crankshafts before 2000 and engine #1500 ( "type 1"): Solved on type 3 (since the engine # 1471 on Formulas and 2214 on Strike and 750S).
It is possible to check if it is a type 1 or 3 without dismantling the engine: On the LHS, if an encoder is directly on the engine case, it is a type 3.
If the encoder is in high position (2/3 cm), it is a type 1. Fitting a type 3 solves the problem.
Correction: In fact, it seems that the type 3 cranks weren't fitted in 2000 but in the beginning of 1999 but only on some bikes. So
the best way to see if there is a type 1 or a type 3 crank is to watch to the support of the ignition pick-up: If its height is of 1
centimeter, it is a type 3, if the height is 2 cm, it is a type 1. Thanks to Franck Baur for this information.

- Gearbox: Fragile 6 speed barrel on all Formulas: The failure can occur since the first 500 kilometers. Sometimes, the 4th gear can break too.
- Fragile water pump.
- Broken oil cooler gasket.
- Bad oil filter: Replace it by the "blanking plate" of the Laverda racing.
- Broken water expansion box: Can rapidly affect the engine itself. To be checked.
- Various electric problems.


Since the 23rd of February 2005, the whole stock of parts coded "LV" for the Zane Laverda bikes is managed by the website:
. This should improve significantly the parts situation. Look at the "news" page.

There are also some other sources:

- Altoperformance: http://www.altoperformance.com/default.htm Real experts of these motorbikes, they propose some efficient mods. The
good adress..
- Ets ENZO in Belgium: http://www.enzo-import.be. Nicolas Bevilacqua pomoted the Zané twins, creating the Laverda Cup in his country.
He keeps a good experience of these bikes and a sotck of parts.
- Gijs Van Dijk (NL): Fax: 31 343 531656. Well known Laverda specialist. Stock of parts and very good advices for the Zane bikes.
- Orange Cycle Team (Germany): Tel: 02251-970752, Fax: 02251-970753, octeam@gmx.de . A very good adress near Cologne, large stock
of parts.
- Project Engineering (GB): http://homepage.ntlworld.com/david.stoddart/bs_proj_uk/bs_eng_uk_products.htm .
Above all specialized in cosmetic parts for the Zane Laverda, but also various parts like oil filters, gaskets, ...
Miura Engineering ltd: (GB): e-mail: miura_eng_ltd@hotmail.com, tel: 01823 444334, fax: 01823 444335. Large stock of parts: oil filters, gaskets, chains and sprockets, staters, alternators, harnesses, headlights, seats, Eproms, brakes,...
- Motalia: (GB): E-mail: sales@motalia.com, tel: 01953 789420, Fax: 01953 789345. Works manuals for Zane Laverdas and some parts.
- Montydons: (GB): http://www.montydons-laverda.co.uk/ This is an old 350 and 500 Laverda specialist, and now too for the Zane bikes. Excellent and helpful website. Stock of parts.

- And for a racing use, the Laverdacing site: http://www.laverdaracing.co.uk/

- Eaglescreens: http://www.eaglescreens.com.au/bimota.htm Screens for 668 and 750 (Available also at Altoperformance).


Some usual parts can be found to replace genuine ones:
- Air filter: Similar filters are available, like the Champion U508 or the VAG (Volkswagen) VW055129620A. See also the
Laverda.free.fr website
to make a sport filter.
- Fuel filter: Similar filters are the Guzzi # 30 10 60 00
- Oil filter: The Purflux LS169B is easy to find and fit perfectly. Probably also the Renault 7700629215 and the Champion C302. If someone can confirm...
- Fuel pump: It should be the same as the early Fiat Punto car. Confirmation is welcome.


- Lube system on 650/668: It is known that the 650/668/Ghost have a very high oil consumption since 9/10 000 km.
Knowing that these engines are prone to overheating, above all on early models, it is necessary to use a full-synthetic oil, AGIP 4T or Mobil 1
for instance, these oils have very good qualities at high temperature.
The full-synthetic oils have slightly anti-friction differences, depending of their origins and trades, so some of these oils with very high
anti-friction qualities can make the clutch slipping. It is then necessary to change the oil and try another one which has no importance on the general qualities if the new oil is always a full-synthetic one.
Important, the oil level should be always to the "max" index, there had been some problems with this.
The first advices of some Laverda importers were to use mineral oils during the running in period (a foreign importer spoke about 15 000 km minimum!) in order to accelerate the running in process. This had some sense as a full-synthetic oil avoid a good running in, but it is necessary
to keep in mind that these engines are subject to overheating. So, a full synthetic oil remains the best choice.
The oil changes should occur every 5000 km, and even less if the bike is used in the traffic. The oil seal must be replaced every 3 oil filter

- Electric system, battery : As indicated above, it is necessary to replace the rectifier by a new one, Nisho iwaï proposed by the factory, or an Electrex. A good improvment too is to change the original battery for the one which is fitted on some 750S Formula, like the excellent Odyssey Genesis EP 12V 16AH or similar.

- Usual maintenance:

Engine oil level, brake fluid level, secondary chain tension
Engine-oil change, oil filter change, air filter cleaning, idle speed checking.
Full synthetic oil
Valve clearance adjusment
0,20 à 0,25 inl.
0,30 à 0,35 ex.
Spark plugs replacement, timing chain tension, head nuts tightening
Brake fluid change, air filter and fuel filter replacement
Timing chain replacement.
Fork oil change

- Valves adjustment:
1- Checking valve clearance:
- The engine should be perfectly cold (stopped since 24 H)
- Remove the head cover
- Check that the head nuts are tight.
- Remove the spark-plugs
- Turn the crank in a anti-clockwise direction until the lobes of the cams are facing in the opposite direction of the tappets.
- Check the clearances with a feeler gauge: 0,20 in. et 0,30 ex.
- If irregular clearance is found, the shims must be changed
- Note the clearance, for each valve, on a paper.
2- Changing the shims:
- Engine always perfectly cold.
- Turn the crank until the joining link of the timing chain is beetween the two camshafts sprockets
- Unscrew the chain tensioner.
- Before removing the joining link, tie two pieces of metal wire to the two ends of the chain and fasten tehm to the crankcase so the chain
cannot fall inside the engine.
- Put some clothes into the cam tunnel and spak plugs holes so nothing can fall inside.
- Remove the joining link.
- Lightly unscrew the two head nuts, one beetween the exhaust tubes, one beetween the inlet manifolds.
- Unscrew the nuts on the studs holding the head in the right order.
- Remove the camshafts and their caps. Be sure not to mix up the caps and plates. Put them on a paper in the right order (front, rear, left,
- Remove the tappets where the shims are wrong.
- Remove the wrong shims and measure them with a micrometer gauge and choose the right shim to get the right clearance (for instance,
if the measured clearance is 0,30 instead of preconized 0,20, there is a difference of +0,10. The right shim should be those of the old shim + 0,10mm).
- Fit the new shims and the tappets (in the right order!)
- Oil the caps and cams, then fit the camshafts and the caps in the right order.
- Tighten the four external nuts that fasten the caps with a torque wrench to 1,4 - 1,5 Kgm
- Then tighten the four retaining nuts inside the head, crossing over several times and following the right sense at 1,5 Kgm. Then again at
3 Kgm to reach at a final torque of 4,5 Kgm. Check several times with the wrench.
- Lightly tighten the two nuts beetween the inlet manifolds and the exhausts.
- Check that the cams can turn without abnormal friction.
- Check again the valve clearance.
- Set the valve timing.
- Close the chain again (remove the metal wires), remove the clothes, and tighten it to the right torque (5mm with a weight of 5 Kg applied beetween the two cam sprockets)
- Replace the cover with a new gasket.

- Adjusting the throttle (668 base): (Required material: voltmeter, normal vacuometer, COtester)
- Remove the air filter cover..

- Completely close the throttle valve on the inlet manifold, turning the register screw.
- Unscrew it until the throttle is resting on the body. Check it several times.
- Remove the seat and the tail piece to access to the contral unit located at the rear of the seat support.
- Remove the external protection of the control unit after having unscrewed the retaining crew.
- Remove the clamp and slip off the external protection of the contact board. Replace the contact board in the control unit.
- Connect the digital voltmeter to the register pin # 11 (-) and to the # 17 (+). With the ignition key ON, check that the voltage is
150 mV +/- 5 mV. If the voltage is wrong, slacken the retaining screws of the potentiometer and turn it until the required voltage is obtained.
To do it, it is necessary to force the throttle valve gently in closing position, then tighten the screws.
- Tighten the register screw until a voltage of 300 mV +/- 15 mV is obtained.
- Connect the vacuometer to the intake manifolds after having removed the screws that closes the holes.
- Start the engine, bring it at using temperature then close the by-pass entirely.
- Set the idle speed to 1100 rpm, turning the by-pass screws then balance the air-flow rates.
- Insert the CO tester in the exhaust and adjust the CO (4 to 6%) with the little trimmer in the control unit after having removed the cap
(screw to enrich, unscrew to lean the mixture).
- The result should be an idle speed of 1100 rpm, 4 to 6% of CO, balanced air-flow rate.


650 Sport
668 Formula
ZLV650SP1000016772 (Australia)
668 Ghost Strike
ZLV65015P10000212. Engine No.2937 (Ireland)
Black Strike
ZLVSSA10000002349 (Germany)
VIN: ZLVSTA 10000001560, Engine Number: 1609 (South Africa)

To be continued...

<<<Retour au menu